Epilogue - Day 15 and onwards!

This was a wonderful 2 weeks. Most who've not undertaken such a thing would imagine this a gruelling challenge. But it wasn't. Really!

We must give our huge and grateful thanks to Tom, Rob and Dave - three of the very best guides. And also to Steve of Peak Tours who provided a service exceeding all expectations.






At times is was tough (the climb to the Lecht at 3'C, the long grind to our final destination at John O'Groats, undercarriage pain). 

Kathy cycled into a super large pothole, fortunately resulting in a puncture only.

Her attention being elsewhere.

However, when considering the whole experience it was a pleasure beyond imagination. Such fine scenery and such a strong feeling for our mainland, county by county, accent by accent, landscape by landscape.

Sean chose to travel by electric bike. He'd had cardiac bypass surgery and is also awaiting knee surgery. Although he'd cycled London Brighton unassisted,  he knew he could not manage the 1000 miles with some form of motorised support. 

It was a Peak Tours first, but he was excellently versed it use of his eBike. The Bosch motor particularly helped with the uphills but provided only moderate or no support when no longer required.

Parkinson patient in US

Another on our tour had been diagnosed with Parkinson's Disease some years before. Despite requiring complex medication, he managed each day with much resilience and friendliness. He told me that those with much more severe disability can continue to cycle (see YouTube video - Cycling with Parkinson's). Also, well reviewed in the Guardian

Please indulge me in this final sentiment - if you have dream, just do it! Jane, our 73 year old triathlete, would often leave at the crack, long before we would rise. She cycle alone with just her route notes to guide her, yet always arrive triumphant and smiling. May your journeys be similar!

Day 14 - The Crask to John O'Groats, 82 miles (89 with detour to Dunnet Head)

Our final day! The initial ride included a spectacular section out of the Crask, past Altnahara and alongside Loch Naver through a beautiful area known as Strathnaver. We skirted alongside the river Naver to Bettyhill and excellent views over the Pentland Firth. From Bettyhill we had a difficult hilly section along the coastal road to Thurso and then Mey to regroup in a pub and take the final 7 miles together. A few of us also took a detour to Dunnet Head the most northerly point on the mainland (John O’Groats is the most north-easterly).

Our final morning was misty but no rain.

A dramatic skyline

and threat of rain.

Altnahara where half of us stayed.

Loch Naver

This was a stunning ride with the Loch to our right.

After 26 miles we arrived at our final brew stop of the whole trip.

Our final jelly babies...

We met with the main coastal road and our faithful National Cycle Route 1

Pentland Firth

...and the sea! The north coast of the mainland.

Having travelled due north through the bleak moorland and the Crask, we then followed the more populated coastal route.

The road went on and on...

...and on.

54 miles of up and down. 

Initially, it was exciting to see the sea.

But the 'rolling route'  rolled and rolled.  "Undulated" 

we were told. But the undules were huge and landscape  featureless.

Five of us took a detour to Dunnet Head, the most northerly point on the mainland.

On the way we met Hannah. She was building a log cabin with her partner using local materials.

The view from their future log cabin was lovely.

She was very pleased that the local Scotch pine had such tight grain indicating a relatively slower growing and stronger wood.













Her uncle and mother-in-law were helping to treat with fungicide/insecticide.

Peter and I arrive at the 11th hour at Dunnet Head, needing to get to our final rendez vous by 4pm

Dunnet Head lighthouse

Old Man of Hoy out in the Orkneys

When we arrived at John O'Groats and a piper and bubbly had been laid on. Many of us were tearful and exhausted.

The piper was organised by Sean's sister and husband who travelled alongside for the final days.

Yes!

No punctures, no significant mechanical problems for most of us.

We had been so lucky with weather - just a few drops of rain on the last day and an occasional shower on the trip

Farewell celebratory meal

with obligatory mushroom dish for the vegetarians.

Statistics
Distance 89 miles (82 if missing detour to Dunnet Head)

Lovely descent to coast then large 'undules' and long drag to our final destination!

Day 13 - Inverness to Crask (overnight in Lairg), 68 miles

Our penultimate day was to take us from Inverness across the Kessock Bridge to skirt the Beauly Firth through Muir of Ord, Dingwall and Evanton. We were then to climb into open and country with fine views of Dornoch Firth and a descent to Bonar Bridge for lunch. We were then to continue by the Kyle of Sutherland and through the Shin Forest to Lairg and the southern most end of Loch Shin. Finally, a stunning but bleak ride through woods and high moor land to the Crask.

Preparing to leave Inverness

Essential Info. about Inverness:

• It is the most northern city in the UK
• Nearby, the 18th century Battle of Culloden took place
• It is one of Europe’s fastest growing cities
• A third of the Highland population live in or around the city
• It’s ranked 5th in the UK for quality of life of 189 British cities
• Over 5% of the population speak Gaelic

Source - Peak Tours notes - thanks for allowing me to plagiarise

Beauly Firth, having crossed Kessock Bridge...

...stunning route along the shore side.

 Bit stormy ahead though.

Vanessa and the Cumbrian lads. Here the pavement was designated as pedestrian and cycle path. Our route north followed much of NCR 1 and was very 'cycle friendly'

 Dave who shall be known as 'Dids'

Dave who shall be known as 'Tommo'

 Ian who shall be known as Sid

 Vanessa who shall be known as Lady Penelope

 The cycle routes protected us from huge lorries (left) and at times we felt very exposed when on the road (right)

True - but not avoiding the big hill!

 Dornoch Firth - the sun appeared then vanished.

The road surface here was excellent - but not always. Often the tarmac would wear away, creating a gritty and bumpy ride.

 High up, the moorland was marshy in places with feathery, white-headed grasses, wild flowers, heather and bracken.

 Descending to Bonar Bridge for lunch

 Fine views of Dornoch Firth...

 ...brief glimpses of patchy sunlight but the rain came. Mild only.

 And the sky darkened.

 We yellowed up in our rain gear.

 I called the Tardis and asked them to stop the rain.

 Lunch at Bonar was excellent.

Homemade soup, a mountain of sandwiches...

 ...and freshly made scones.

 Time to chat...

 ...and deepen friendships.

 After lunch we climbed up into an enchanted forest, Mirkwood from Middle Earth.

 I cycled accompanied by the local elven folk.

 ...until my compatriots scared them off.

 We then climbed higher and higher...

 ...up towards the Crask.

 The road was very long...

 ...the scenery bleak and barren, but beautiful!

Eventually, we arrive the Crask in the middle of nowhere, high up on this bleak plain.

Fabulous friendly pub with two local beers and accommodation...

...but fully booked that night with Munro baggers - often a site for a final Munro party as the Scottish peaks are completed.

 This characteristic Sustrans sign (right) is found up and down the country showing the superb work supporting National Cycle Routes (http://www.sustrans.org.uk)

The owner has run pub this for 20 years but is retiring to move to a more populated area. Fancy a pub far in the North?

There is limited accommodation in the area. Therefore, we leave our bikes at the Crask and catch a lift back to Lairg. Others cycle onward to Altnaharra.

Super view over Loch Shin from our room.

 It remained light until 10.30pm.

Statistics - are you really reading these?
Roadkill - one bird, one small furry mamma.
Live spotting - a shrew scurried across the road unscathed (Sid saw a polecat)